CHIMPS!!!

This was an awesome time! After a very early breakfast we drove over an hr to the Kibale National Park area.  Once heavily logged, it forms an 111 mile continuous forest and wildlife corridor.  It has 60 mammal species, 325 bird species, hundreds of trees amd butterfly species, but we came for the chimpanzees!  Only a small number are allowed in the park each day, and after a short briefing oftrekking  rules...i.e.  no eating, no making chimp noises, no running from or after chimps, and some other rules, we were assigned our ranger to lead us.  Boy Howdy! Did we ever draw the lucky straw.  Our group divided in half and we were assigned to "Alex".  I knew that was a good omen, because it is the name of our grandson!  It was cloudy, but warm, and we were lucky it never rained, although we were prepared.  After hiking over an hour with no sightings, we were beginning to become a tad  discouraged.....when far out into the forest came the most blood curdling  banshee Chimpanzee noises, and they went on and on and on and stopped us in our tracks. I was close to Alex, and he turned to ask me if we were"strong to go". Wasn't exactly sure what he meant, but I said yes, and our group of 5 took off running thru the thick forest after the troop.  We found them.  Some were lying around under trees, some were foraging a little for food, and some were.....ahhhh, hmmmm playing with themselves.  These are totally wild chimps, but somewhat used to humans if the humans don't act aggressive or challenging. We covered 5 miles of running/walking/climbing and following Alex for the next few hours.  We came upon many chimps, mostly in groups, and lots of times they got very excited and wanted to fight other chimpanzees.  The biggest thrill of all, was standing quietly watching a few random chimps when the forest once again errupted with agitated  chimp screaming.  A BIG alpha male broke loose and ran toward us on his way to the offending troop.  Alex yelled at us to stand and NOT run, which was an instinct.  The big Alpha ran so fast and powerful and veered toward our group, that he actually brushed his fur on Elena, who was standing next to me. It was an adreniline rush like no other!   We continued for another hour or so tracking these  exciting animals.  When we all reconvened  and asked the others how many they saw, they answered... 5, and they were hard to see because they were high in the trees.  We saw over 80 ( some more than once, because they form with other troops),  and had the "brush by" experience.   The other group was dog tired amd dissappointed.  We were ecstatic...luck of the draw!

PS.  Sorry for the quality of the photos.  We were not allowed to use flash or red eye correction, and it was fairly dark in the forest for my little point and shoot.

 

NDALI LODGE

There's always a light at the end of the tunnel, right?  After the roughest day of traveling, testing our bodies and minds, we started climbing the towards the Rwenzori Mts.  Close to the boarder of the Democratic Republic of Congo.  We climbed through a melange of forests, villages, and tea plantations to over 4700 ft and entered the grounds of Ndali Lodge.  I will describe it at a botique eco lodge.  No electricity, only solar power.  It is in a destinctive setting perched on the edge of an extinct volcano crater which now forms Lake Nyinambuga.  Everything is contructed with local building materials, and there are no generators.  It was originsly owned by a family from England who grew tea on the slopes.  During the 70's Idi Amin confiscated the estate and it fell to ruin.  It is a ruin no more, as one of the grandsons has returned it to a beautiful abode of 8 thatched guest cabins.  We were greeted by a calming tea service on our individual decks over looking the mts.  Fresh flowers and candles in our rooms, and temperfoam matteresses.  Immpecable service and they did all our dirty laudry without charge.

They also had a wood fired Finnish sauna, which Steve and I made immediate use of.  The nights were cool, and we slept like babies.

HARD TRAVELING

We have had 2 bad days of traveling on this trip, and today was the second one.  We left Paraa Lodge early and caught the ferry for the last time!   We basically drove 200 miles on the worst roads ever.  We hit a torential rain storm.  There was alot of slipping and sliding, even with the Land Crusier.  I was cursing the whole thing and bouncing like a rubber ball.  After 5 1/2  hrs we had only gone 99 miles, so we pulled over on some piney woods and had a box lunch picnic and took a break. 

The problem is: we are seeing a lot of Uganda, and between lodges, there is not much except local tribes and small villages, so on the last couple legs of the trip, we have had to drive on mostly dirt roads with huge ruts, and lots of mud.  As soon as rainy season is over, the communities will,probabaly grade these red dirt roads, but for now it is tough going.  We have really seen the "local" life...no tourists here.  People walk everywhere in the country. Today was Sunday and most were dressed for church.  Our guide, Ham, speaks 6 different tribal languages and was able to tell me about the dress of many of  the groups.  Christian Fundamentalist groups have been a huge influence in this area, but the people throw their own version of religion in too.  We drove past many, many small churches and they were rocking and rolling  with the spirit!

I cannot say enough about our two great drivers.  We alternate between the rigs and these guys are amazing drivers and people!  While not exactly a comfortable ride, these guys make it so much better with their kindness and humor.  And I give them gold medals for keeping us safe.  I know they must be exhausted after these long driving days, but they are still smiling!

BIRDERS!

KOk all you birders out there, don't get your tail feathers all in a knot, but I got something to say!  You know I love you guys.  Some of my good friends and relatives are hard core birders.  I think it is a great hobby, and I appreciate that you can laugh at yourself...right?  

About half our little group of hardy travlers are birders, and I am learning alot, whether I want to or not, because being captive in a Land Cruiser on a game drive which lasts hours gives you time to observe...the Birders!  Now, I know if we had come across a lion with a fresh kill, you would have loved that too, but we didn't.  So, Steve and I were included in your world, and it looked like downright ecstasy a few times when something new was spotted. I learned about "listers ( not a bird, folks) and more bird minutia than I ever thought possible.  Our guides and drivers are birders, so we could not get away if  we tried!  They will stop anytime and any place to sight.  Our cuiser is filled with books, binnocs, very expensive camers lenses, and happy camper birders.  I am sure they would happily spend all day, forgo lunch and even wine time!  That is why our 2 hr game drives always took 4 or 5 hours!  

I get it, but then again, I don't.  I caught Steve peeking thru the bird book after complaining that no one was looking for lions, etc.  And I even took some pretty good shots with my little point and shoot, but I don't know what they are........yet.  Oh oh...is this just the first step into that swirling vortex of birding?

Well, you birders out there...and you know who you are....these shots are for you!

God

WINE TIME ON THE NILE

Yesterday was the Nile in a rain storm, today was opposite...the Nile at it's best!  After another game drive and spotting of the same oil guys, we had lunch at the lodge and a few hours of relaxation.  Our first, and badly needed.  Late in the afternoon, we boarded our boat, which survived the lightning, and moseyed down a very calm Nile with a cooler full of wine and beer, and hor'd orves.  The "birders" in the group were in la la land with so many  beaitiful sightings, and I was thourougly enjoying the peace, serenity, and beauty of this area while sipping a nice dry South African white!  I took sooooo many pictures!  Yikes!

......and a little storm

We were met at the boat by two park Rangers and started off down the quieter waters of the Victoria Nile, also called the "white Nile". We heard some great info about early explorers and Ernest Hemmingway and his two plane crashes approximately where we were starting the cruise back to the lodge.  Our thirst was quenched, and we were enjoying the shade of the metal roof of our boat as we started down the  Nile  to look for hippos, crocs, birds, and enjoy the leisurly pace.

Steve kept mentioning to me that it looked like rain ahead, but how could that be?  Since this is still part of the rainy season, we have been treated to spectacular thunder and lighning storms every evening, and sometimes lasting all night long.  It is usualy

sunny again in the morning, and we have been enjoying this scenario.  It always seemed so far off, and provided incredible light shows for hours.

In a matter of about 10 min.....wow!  The temp dropped about 30 degrees, the thunder clapped, white caps churned up.....and yep, we were floating down the Nile river in an aluminum boat while lightening was striking.  I didn't like it. We all scambled for our rain geat, but I got soaking wet as the rangers were trying to secur the canvass flaps, and keep the boat on course at the  same time.  We had to "hug" the other side of the river where the waves were smaller, but we were still having to take them head on for safetly reasons and we all got soaked, and just hung on as we inched along.  It took twice as long as expected.  I am beginning to see a pattern here in everything Ugandan.  To be fair, it is a harsh, but beautiful, landscape, and we were looking for adventure, but floating down the Nile in an aluminum flat bottom boat in a lightening storm was not what I was thinking.

HIKING THE FALLS AND A STORM ON THE NILE

Forget the phrase "relaxing time" I used in the last post.  We are up early(in my case, I am at the early risers coffee at 5:30) along with a few others all hundled with our ipads uploading pics and trying to capture the limited WiFi. After another long game drive, and back for lunch, we cross again on our "ferry" and drive to Murchison Falls for a hike.  It is about 97 degrees,and once again my dissconnect with Ugandan reality doesn't hit until we get to the "trail head".  Hahhaha. Steep trail on precarious outcroppings...YES.  Guard rails or anything remotely related to safety....NO. We hiked down to the fall area, which was spectacular and wet and slippery.  Then we had to hike Back UP.  It was so hot.  Then we hiked down and up again until we came to the river below the falls, where a boat picked us up for a ride back which was suppossed to take a little over an hour. The cataract of the falls is one of the earth's largest with 11,000 cubic feet a second exploding thru a 20 ft wide chasm.  It was not an easy hike, and a few people had rough going, but we all made it to the boat eventually, and were offered cold beer and chips.  Did I say it was hot!  A steam bath really.