NEWFOUNDLAND

 After we left Greenland , we sailed across the Atlantic, and the the Labrador Sea to some small towns in Newfoundland. We have gotten into some rough weather, but just like the residents of these former whaling towns…. We toughed it out! We have some excellent hikes and visited locals and museums to see how these people lived in this extreme climate. RED BAY was so tiny and picturesque, and just full of wrecked whale boats, and abandoned structures. Yesterday we spent a LOOONG day in Corner Brook, which we decided was a very cool town. The friendliest people and they are so proud of their town. The city is just covered with outdoor trails and parks, and even when it starts snowing, the inhabitants have ski trails and downhill skiing and curling and all sorts of activities.

We have been sailing all day on  our way to St Pierre , one of the French speaking towns in NL… we’ll arrive in the am and catch a small flight to Halifax where our journey ends.

What do we do at sea for the days we don’t land? We have a solid crew of naturalists, environmentalists, biologists, and people dedicated to making the earth better for our children. Last night a local group came about and put on a really fun and fast paced program of Newfoundland music. Today we had lectures and programs all day and people can pick and choose their interest areas.  I have learned so much about the INTUIT populations of the world and truly feel they tough and candy people to have lived centuries in a harsh climate like the Arctic.

Some of the people are staying on  board and sailing to Antarctica ! Wow! 2 months on a ship! I need to feel some earth under my feet… but they will sail off to the Panama Canal after we depart the ship. 

GOODBYE GREENLAND

 We spent 4-5 days exploring Different cities and areas in Greenland. We learned about their colorful houses, which historically were painted colors, instead of addresses.The houses were kit houses imported from Norway . Different professions used different color, ex: yellow meant hospital and drs and nurses.Red were fireman, Blue were fisher people, and so on. Now days, these customs are waning as new modern high roses are popping up all,over, especially in NUUK, which is the Capital. 

We got to do some interesting hikes and we got to experience cold rainy weather. Most of the population is Inuit or  descendants of Inuit, with Danish people thrown in to run the place. 

We finally set course for Labrador and sailed for almost 3 days without touching land. We had some rough water and I was seasick half the time. On our sail, the crew did special events like quizzes, and Q &A and talks and  lectures on many subjects pertaining to this expedition.  We had a peregrine falcon land on our bow and used the ship as a form of transport for himself while crossing the sea. He would fly off, but then he’d be back perched on the bow. The staff roped off the area because some people cannot follow instructions to leave the bird alone. We haven’t seen him today, so it’s figured that he found land and also food.

We have finally landed in RED BAY and it will be the first time off the ship in a few days. Can’t wait.

NUUK

 We spent the whole day in the Capitol of Greenland..NUUK. A city of  OVER 20,000  and still growing rapidly. Everyplace we looked there were cranes, bulldozers, and so much digging and planning. It was rainy steady, but we decided to go explore anyway. The city bus dropped us off in the older part of town, and we ambled around all over and saw the national museum which was incredible with artifacts and information from the early days of mankind. There is so much to learn about these ancient  people.Denmark totally supports Greenland with health coverage, subsidized living and schools.  All the signs are in Danish and Inuit. The fishing industry in Greenland is responsible for much of the fish we eat in America. There are hardly any single houses  here…most are apts. no garages, no lawns, no flowerbeds.  Today everything looked bleak in the fog and rain…… but these populations are outdoor people and used to  extreme weather.

SISIMIUT

 Another rough night at sea and was happy to be dock side today when we landed. We had a whole day to spend in Sisimuit and we made the best of it. We started out with a city bus tour. It didn’t last long because it’s not a big town. But it’s colorfu l and we learned that the colors of the houses each correspond with the owners profession! Red=fireman, Blue= fisherman…. And on and on.

After lunch we decided to go on a hike with a guide , who was Danish. It was pretty energetic and we walked thru so much mud to a high point and we could see the town below. On the way back I lost my balance and slipped into the mud, which was like quicksand. The guide was able to help me out. It was a six mile hike and part of the Arctic Trail system. 

One odd thing is we had to walk them”dog town”, an area where people keep their sled dogs tied up until the snow comes. So so many dogs on chains. And puppy’s who are NOT chained until they are 6 months old.

DISKO BAY

 Well, 2 days at sea and we finally made it to Greenland. We landed at Ilulissat, a small town on the west coast. It’s claim to fame is ice, icebergs, scenery and fishing! The ice was making a big presence as we geared up and tried to get into town in our zodiacs. The driver had to dodge icebergs that move all the time. It was exciting. Our ship stayed waaay outside the harbor because the capt didnt want to get ice bound. And it happens. In fact, as we tried to go back in the afternoon…the ship was moving out at a slow pace and we had to  chase it down! 

Once  we landed on the docks, we took off on an incredible hike to Disko Bay. Just Google it. It’s where all the iceberg actions are and massive postings on the internet. The rain stopped and it was a great day and the hike was on a long board walk to the sea. After the hike we visited the Ice museum and then found a local lunch place in town. We ordered a Musk Ox burger and it was so so big! And so so good! So much so we are skipping dinner to give our tummy’s a rest! Fishing is the main occupation here and watching these small boats maneuver thru the ice flow is quite entertaining 

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POND INLET

 Woke up to a very different weather pattern. Cloudy, rainy and and headed to Pond Inlet, a rather larger community of Inuits. And they were expecting us! Capt wasn’t sure we could access the docks with all the wave action, but never underestimate sea faring Norwegians. The zodiacs were sent out for a trial run, and then we suited up! Just a few words of what it takes to go on shore. We are divided into groups, and the groups rotate every day. The staff gives a 10 min. Call for a group number to come to the boat den. We don our long underwear and then another layer. I use THICK wool socks. Then our normal winter jackets and water proof pants are put on. Most of our landing are in water and we literally step off the the zodiacs into 1 ft of water. Over our winter clothes we then put on a nice HellyHansen rain repellent coat. Add a warm hat, a neck gaiter and our huge and heavy rubber boots…and we are almost ready! We have been given life jackets also, which have to be put on in a specific manner. Then a mask, sunglasses, warm gloves and we finally waddle down the the lower deck to get in the rafts. When we return to ship , we wash our boots in a solution and then go thru a metal detector! This is a Canadian rule, not the ships rules, but Canadian waters are very strict for some reason. Yesterday the Canadian navy followed us along side for hours.  IDK why.

PondInlet is a far northern Hamlet above the Arctic circle. Some of the towns people met us as we landed on their docks and took us for a walk about. We saw their medical and police stations and the coop and ended up in a large cultural center where some of the I units were waiting to greet us and explain how they live in the harsh climate. They explained how the Canadian gov and missionaries literally beat their languages and customs out of them for so long. Finally, about 50 years ago they became a more sovereign nation and have brought back their customs and even their language. They are a proud but quiet people and we’re very excited to show our group how they live now.

We saw drumming, throat singing, and many athletic feats that they use to prepare themselves for the grueling ancient custom of hunting in this cold barren earth. They spoke and dressed in the native clothes and we learned so much.

HIKING IN THE ARCTIC

 This am, we moored in a delightful place called Dundas Harbor. No one lives here, but we got to hike around and explore the sites of old residences. The CanadianGov

sent crews here in the early last century to monitor the area , which they wished to claim as their own. It so remote and cold , it must have been hell for the few who were assigned this post. Some Inuit were paid  to show the Canadians how to survive, as everything had to be shipped in. Still, the Canadians lost most of their people to suicide and some deceases. 

Well, we zodiaced on the the shore and hiked about 3 miles . Some people got to go kayaking, but not our group and it would have been perfect. Calm and sunny. We climbed all over the place,  secure in the fact that our expedition team were stationed here and there on polar bear duty. The sea ice had completely chocked the bay and will probably stay here all winter. We spent about three hours exploring and when we got back to the ship, the restaurant crew has prepared a nice shish  kabob barbecued lunch. The head chef is from Turkey, and he wanted to show off his Turkish cooking skills. They even moved the bar outside and made some kind of celebratory drink.

We are now at sea and on our way to PondInlet, and the capt just said we were in for rough weather again with high winds and rain….