TIGERS!

India has one of the best Tiger preserves in the world. This perserve of almost 100,000 acres used to be the private hunting grounds of the Majarajas of Jaipur.  We saw the actual blinds where they would kill the tigers. Even Queen Elizabeth shot and killed one before this was outlawed. The Bengal Tiger is making a comeback thanks to India's Project Tiger. There are many beautiful bird species and other animals in this National Park, including Leopards, but everyone wants to spot the Tigers which can be very elusive. After a nice lunch at the lodge we boarded these huge oversized jeeps and took off on a late afternoon drive.  It was so bumpy, we had to hang on and so dusty too. We stayed out until dark and it got cold, but we didnt spot a tiger. We were accompanied by a great naturalist who certainly had a passion for his work.  He knew all the tigers and stories about one that has killed 4 men in opportunistic encounters. The lodge does not guarantee tiger spotings, but we got up very early the next am, ready to try again.

Big Bats hanging in the trees.

We had some quick coffee and took off in the cold am light. We drove around in our assigned area andnothing was  spotted. Finally The coffee took its toll and we went to a building where the women could use a squatty potty and the guys used "a loo with a view" , which it is called in the forest. Guys have it easy. Just as the last woman was in the toilet, our guide started calling us all excitedly back...hurry, hurry, hurry...they had heard roaring in a certain area, and we were going to be hot on the trail. The Guide asked us if we could "REALLY hang on for dear life", and we assured him we could. Good thing we had all just peed, or we would have all been wet! That driver put the petal to the metal and we had quite the ride careening around sharp turns and rocky patches, and it was thrilling but rough! very rough.  We got to the roar area to find a few smaller jeeps had beat us. We saw one large male and a female and they were mating. Then the male would follow the female and try again, and again, and again........

It was all worth that bumpy ride. We got back to the lodge late and ate breakfast about 11:00am. Dirty as heck, but so pumped we had seen this. We had one more ride schedualed in the late afternoon, so no one took a shower...we just grubbed around waiting to go again. Lo and behold we sighted a young Tigress before it got dark. She was marking territory and also trying to hunt.  She paid no attention to us. 

We all felt so lucky and happy that we scored 2 out of three and a mating,which we were told is a rare sight. It was a blast, and a thrill of a lifetime to see these animals in their natural environment.

RANTHAMBHORE

We left Jaipur for Ranthambhore and a small boutique style lodge on the edge of the Nation Forest. We traveled thru the rural India that most visitors don't see. Many many small villages and tribal areas. Women in bright saris working out in the fields. Many camels pulling carts and plowing apparatuses. Small markets of fruit, and the life that almost 70% of all Indians live.  Very rural, very poor, but the rhythm of life was very evident. The roads were awful! Bumpy and rutted, but not as much traffic as in the cites. Still, crazy drivers and much car dodging. If I only knew what it was preparing  us for later.

We arrived at our comfortable lodge about lunch time and it was a peaceful oasis in a bustling village that had literally grown up around this park.  These were our rooms. Very spacious and comfortable. The lodge grew all their own vegetables. And the food was the best we have had so far on the trip, with a different regional flavors. A bit spicy, but absolutely fresh and wonderful.

Of course, we traveled all this way to see the Bengal Tigers in this area. The village people used to kill them, and be killed by them. Poachers,of course used to be a big problem. India  has made a huge progress in Ranthambhore to protect these magnificent animals, and it has worked. They have almost completely eliminated poaching, and also hired the villagers as guards, guides, craftsmen, and that has  eliminated   the need for guides for the poachers.  In fact, ALL tigers in India are FREE. Not in zoos or private homes like in America. Completely free to do what tigers do. They do not interfere with males killing cubs, or anything of the natural order. We spent two days with the most wonderful Naturalist on "drives". We were bounced, jostled, dirty and exhausted, but successful and happy.  It was a lifetime thrill and a totally different "India" than many see.

JAIPUR ADVENTURES

JAIPUR

We got to Jaipur, the largest City in Rajastan, about lunch time and checked into the "Jai Mahal Palace Hotel". Now, we're talkn! Pretty nice and we stay for 3 nights of exploring. We were pretty tired, but rallied up after lunch for a bit of a city tour, ending up at Birla Hindu Temple at sunset, just in time for evening prayers. This is an all marble building with three types of architecture representing the three major religions in India. It was quite beautiful. It was crowded inside, but we stayed, as the faithful prayed and the priests tossed the holy water on all of us. Checking shoes at these places is kind of a "cluster f_ _ _, if you get my drift. The inevitable happened as one of our group put on some other mans shoes and was about to walk. We noticed a guy frantically looking for HIS shoes, and figured it all out. Eeeewwww. Stinky feet.

We got back to the hotel and the UW hosted a bit of a cocktail party for us poor wretched travelers.My bed was spinning that night!

We got up early am to get to the Amber Fort before the crowds. Thank goodness, as the day got,pretty warm and it got crowded. We also went to Jantar Mantar, a collection of astronomical instruments built aboutn1734 without slide rules or sophisticated instruments, and still accurate today. Since Horoscopes play such a huge part in Hindu match making, we were given a short lesson by an actual reader of horoscopes. It was very interesting.

Amber Fort

ON THE ROAD TO JAIPUR

We packed up and hit the road for about a four hour trip to Jaipur. It was finally a freeway and a smooth ride. Along the way, Naveen, our Hindu guide went into great and hilarious detail about Hindu culture and arranged marriages. He and his two brothers all had their marriages arranged by their parents. Two brothers never even saw their bride until after the wedding when they lifted the veil. Holy crap! Naveen was a bit luckier and a bit more defiant as he met his future bride a few times before, she was weeded out of 6,000 applicants and was actually chosen by the Hindu priest after he did the horoscope. VERY VERY important to be compatible horoscoptically. Also, same class, which was extremely number one in importance. Quite a "Bollywood Tale" in real life, and he could have a second career as a comedy writer.

Along the way, we saw trucks hauling huge hunks of white marble from an area about 60 miles away. We saw many camel caravans who had left the Camel Fair and were returning to their homes. And yes, they walk them on the shoulder of the freeway. But the MOST interesting thing we saw was a naked Jain monk walking with his ontorage, barefoot, in one lane of the freeway. The Jain's are one of the oldest sects of religion in India. They Are off the wall devote, non violence to everything. They are ultra   strict vegetarians, and will not eat any plant that grows down in the ground, as carrots, potatoes, etc. only plants that grow upwards. The monk believes he needs no clothes as the universe is his clothing. Well, we were a bit shocked and we pulled over to let them pass us, because we wanted to look closer...oh, I know. Anyway as they passed us they waved to us to join them! So we got out and went over and THEY wanted to take a picture of US! Standing with them! Then the priest threw holy Ganges water on us and they resumed their pilgrimage. I am NOT making this up. Every day, something strange happens to us in India. When a Jain monk feels his time on earth is over, he just stops  eating until he dies. The government is fighting this practice, but in fact with over a billion people in the country, there are many things to worry about.

I have included a newspaper page which is just one of 4 in yesterdays paper. The parents put ads in the paper for "hard to match kids" and hope something will happen. India really is a developing country in so many ways, but here the Indian traditional ways still prevail. Very strong culture with the old ways. Still very machismo and poor women struggle unbelievable.  China is developing much much faster in all ways. Very interesting. 

HOMAGE TO LIFE

After the Temple of Lord Brahma ( which has no relation to Brahma Bulls, or the Brahmin caste) we walked to Lake Pushkar to take part in a ceremony of blessing our ancestors, and asking for all things good in our lives to come. We could take pictures as we approached the lake on a red carpet, no less. But then had to stow cameras and shoes once more. Most Indians actually bathe in these holy waters, and they just dont get wet, they have to have the head in the water. Obviously, we weren't going to submerse. A holy man said ritualistic words and we repeated, even in Hindi. He spoke pretty fast, and some of the words that came out of our mouths, probabaly weren't correct..maybe even funny...well, hilarius. But it was a serious and solemn ritual, so no chuckling.  Most men stripped to white clothes for their bath. The women kept on whatever veils and gowns they were wearing. Also, most women used a seperate "ghat" as the holy bathing areas were called.  It really was beautiful.

Then we opened our palms and the holy man placed rose petals in them....no sniffing to the nose, just relax and hold the delicate flower petals while we repeated more words. Then saffron was sprinkled on the rose petals. More chanting. Then we asked for good Karma, good health, good business, more money, more happiness for all our relatives too. We also asked for good Karma for everyone in our family who had died and would be reborn. It was starting to get to me. So serious. 

The holy man made the red paste and placed the mark on our foreheads, then we walked to the water and gently tossed the petals into the Holy Lake. Coming back to our seats on the steps, the Holy man asked us if we were married or not, and tied the yellow and red string on the appropriate wrist. Hmmmmm. 😳 

Finally, we said more "prayers" following his lead, and finished the ceremony.  It was a real. I liked it, and now I feel sufficiently blessed by Lord Brahma. Interesting morning.

CAMELS AND HOLY SITES

Pushkar is one of Hinduism's holiest sites. It is the ONLY place in the whole world there is a temple dedicated to Lord Brahma, the Creator of the Universe. Hinduism has many gods and goddesses, millions, in fact. There are many temples all over the world for these gods and goddesses. But only ONE for Lord Braham. And it is in Pushkar. Timed to coincide with the full moon, the fair draws pilgrims to the many temples surrounding Lake Pushkar.

We left the hotel right after breakfast and boarded the ever present tuk-tuk brigade. This time we would walk to the Lord Brahma Temple, through the fair stalls. Along the way, our guide Naveen, would tell us about the wares, foods, interesting factoids particular to many Indians. There are so many different tribes and groups here, including many many gypsies and Muslims, attracted to a place to sell their wares and services. It was extremely interesting. We saw young boys offering tattoos, with needles that had been used many times! And a very primative tattoo apparatus. The foods were so varied. Pushkar itself is 100% vegetarian and alcohol free. The hotels build away from the town to attract the visitors who want to drink and or eat meat. Cows, bulls, pigs, and a few other animals wander freely thru the market. People feel they can increase their good Karma by feeding the cows, especially, since Lord Brahma, Creator of the Universe, made the cow sacred. We stopped by a woman and bought some of her grass and helped her feed some cows who had gathered.

The Temple area was very crowded with the devout climbing the steps to worship Lord Brahma. Pilgims come all year round, but this is the busiest time because of the fair. We left our shoes and packs AND cameras with a guard and proceded to climb the marble steps to the top. There were Indian Police in high numbers. People streamed by the temple port hole that had the god in it, and gave "sweets" and small bits of rice too. There were a lot of yellow jacketss attracted by the rotting food, but no bother. We got in the procession and just followed along. It actually was pretty amazing to just watch the families, people from all walks of life in India stream by and pray to their supreme diety.