VOLUBILIS AND MEKNES

We had a “free day” today but decided to grab a bus and travel to the edge of the RIF (small mountains) and explore a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is a very old Roman Ruins called VOLUBILIS.   I have seen many Roman ruins, but this was exceptional and only about 30% excavated.we got a local guide on site and he took us thru historical and local areas and gave us so much info. It was great. Then we went to Mekenes passing miles and miles of olive groves and agricultural land. We learned why Muslims don’t like dogs, but can tolerate cats. We had a very traditional lunch in an old restaurant before we started another walking tour of the Moroccan Sultanate. Long ride in the bus, but worth it to learn all this history. After a short rest we went into the  cooler and retrieved our wine and had a happy hour. We were joined by a most impressive woman professor at a Moroccan university. We asked her to speak of the role

of women in Morocco and how things are changing. She was most articulate and impressive...and I was in my element. Even Steve joined in for questions.  I just felt I could spend so much more time with her...ms Fatima......with sociological discussions and observations.  I didn’t want it to end....but dinner called! Our last night at this cozy Riad before we head to the Sahara for our desert excursions. We were served a very traditional dish called chicken pastille....and once again we were stuffed but happy. Mohamed entertained us with his story of his Berber wedding in his home town, and it was quite the tale. Tomorrow...we head out..early...a 9 hour trip thru the Middle Atlas Mountains to Erfoud....the date capital of Morocco...and the edge of our desert trip.  I cannot wait!

A DAY IN THE MEDINA

Today we took off to explore the many many narrow alleyways of the Fes Médina. Someone said there may be over 9000 small pathways or alleys around and in the walled section of “old Fes”.while modernization is here and Fes has malls and upscale stores......for many locals...a daily or twice weekly trip to the  Edina is still the norm. One can buy anything. Begging was nil, but without a local guide.....who knows if we would ever find out way out of this maze...and yet, here are people in and out all day. We saw everything edible, and spices and clothes, and you name it. We even had lunch at a restaurant right in the middle of all the twisty turny area.  A young Muslim woman took us through the maze of alleys and shops, and she was very forthcoming about women in a Muslim society.   It was a long day of walking and on our feet, but we came back to our Riad and rested and got ready to go have dinner with a local family.
Our group of 5 was invited to visit a local family and see how a normal life with a family in Morocco is like. We were able to walk to their home and enjoyed a very warm welcome. The wife cooked a very traditional lamb tanging with vegetables, and we tried eating the whole meal with out fingers! Alcohol is never served....but we had a bit of a pre party at our Riad! Lol. Fruit is a common dessert in Morocco, and we enjoyed it after a wonderful meal. The daughter spoke excellent English, so she was doing much translation....but she was a spitfire and could handle it.  They always want to know if people (like U.S.  people) know about Morocco and what their impressions are. While we were there, the call to prayer was sounded twice, and the father got up both times and went to the mosque to pray.
It is so interesting for me to be in such a county that is 99% Sunni Muslim, but there is much tolerance and people here are exceptionally friendly and welcoming.

THE HAMMAN

Not even sure how to write about this experience.....because it was unusual and in a whole category of it’s own! So a Hamman is very traditional in Morroco.It is basically a communal bath with a hard scrub and a social place where Moroccans go to relax and clean themselves. We were told to leave “everything” at the Riad, except a towel and the black soap and loofah mits we were issued. We walked a few minutes to the local Hamman, and the men went in one door and we went in another. We were met by three Muslim ladies who were basically naked except for their head scarves. No English. Big problem. We ladies thought maybe we would be allowed to wear our underwear...but thru much motioning.....we figured out it was to take off!  All off.Then we were led into a very hot steam room and sat on small pads on the marble floor. There were big buckets of water in front of each one of us, and since I was at the end of the naked ladies line...I was first to get scrubbed with a rough mit...and the black soap. And NO place was left unscrubbed . I was on my back, on my stomach, in the scrubbers lap, positioned here and there and for 15 minutes or so....was scrubbed clean, rinsed...scrubbed again and again. Then they washed our hair...all the time fetching hot or cooler water depending on the need. Other “women”....mostly young, came into the huge steam room while we were there...Everyone was naked.  Finally we were thru with the process and went to find our clothes. We met the guys outside and compared notes....with much laughing on descriptive renditions. I can say I Did feel very clean and my skin felt silky.......and I would do it again! It grows on you. The whole time we were there was a social time and naked bonding...and lots of laughing after the shock wore off. There was NO place for modesty....that’s for sure!

FES’

We left Rabat and the coast today and turned inland for a 3 1/2 hr ride to the ancient city of Fes. We stopped at a local market on the way to take buy and take fruit to our Riad we would be staying in for 3 days. I had been practicing my Arabic and with the help of Mohamed, I  made the purchase of bananas and grapes....and paid...all in Arabic. Feeling proud for about I minute! Then we went and had noose noose...which was basically excellent coffee with half milk.

We traveled thru miles and miles of olive,cork trees, and vineyards and the edge of the middle Atlas Mts. until we reached Fes. There is “new” Fes, which is wide streets and modern and totally French influence. And there is Middle Ages Fes, with its narrow winding streets and beautiful Riads, which are basically old Arab houses. We are staying at Riad Mariana, which is an UNESCO site and was restored to strict standards to keep the old traditional way. We met the family who own it and are being treated as their friends, not tourists. We had a wonderful lunch and settled in, before headed to our big bathing excursion at a tradition Moroccan Hamman,  Before dinner , we walked around to get oriented in our local area, and when we returned we enjoyed our wine up on the roof of the Riad,, while the sun was setting and the call to prayer was sounding.

THE CAVE

OK, we needed to go “shopping” for  liquid refreshment. Morocco is “dry”.... except for the tourists, and the Moroccans who drink......and evidently there are enough of those,  that there are secret underground liquor stores that everyone knows about! And buys booze, and drink said booze......so on our way to dinner, after our car crash in the traffic circle..... we were escorted to “The Cave”. Down the narrow steps we went to a underground liquor room that was as crowded and humid as it gets! So crowded I could hardly scoot up and pick out a couple bottle of wine. But our dinner companions and Steve and I managed to grab beer and wine for our Sahara and  3 day stay in Fes, because otherwise...there would be no wine time...oh these crazy rules! The restaurants and home we are staying in...do not care if we imbibe and bring our own... it being good Muslims...they can’t provide alcohol..... ok then.... so in the depths of the Cave, we did our business and everyone labeled their own bottles, it was expertly packed and stored in the “boot” of our travel bus.....and off we went to dinner....which was served with wine! Oh I can’t keep up. But it was pretty fun.

RABAT

Our first full day, after finally getting some sleep. We had a walking orientation after breakfast, and found the high speed tram and the museums. Steve and I stopped at an airy lunch spot for lunch, but service was so slow.... we never got past the mint tea, so we left and went back to hotel. On the way back we witnessed the fist at crash of the day...no one hurt, but lots of noise..shouting from the two guys who collided. Rabat is teeming with police...so there is always one “on the spot”!   They are also  stationed at all the traffic circles...and you’d have to be here to understand why! Haha.
So after downing some crackers and candy bars...we were off the the Kings palace and the Kasbah(Fort), and the Kings Mausoleum. We learned much history from a wonderful local guide named Rashid. Side note: towards the end of the afternoon, Rashid apologized profusely, because he had to go pick up his kids at school!
We took the high speed tram back to the hotel and got ready for the evening. We we’re going to a Riad ((large home with a courtyard)for dinner, but first we had to stop by “The Cave”. More on this in next post.
On the way to The Cave our driver entered the large traffic circle and we had a run in..literally....with another car.  Standing police to the rescue.....so we were delayed a bit while the issues of who was at fault was sorted out. Finally made it to the Riad which was a walk down the alleys....called  Medina’s. A very traditional Moroccan dinner...with many many vegetables..and the Mint Tea presentation. Great introduction to a fascinating country. So far....very impressed with then
progressive state of their infrastructure and very clean city!

WAKING UP IN MOROCCO

After a long trip from Seattle.... we landed in Casablanca, Morocco for couple weeks adventure taking us over the Atlas Mts, and into the Sahara Desert. After an uneventful but ssssllllooowwww ride from the airport..to the Capitol city of Rabat, we basically just fell into bed as soon as we checked in to our downtown hotel. Why the driver was creeping along on a freeway, being passed by everyone..is a mystery. It took over 2 hours! At the hotel we met Mohamed.....who was quite fetching and kind and understood we were almost comatose with lack of sleep...so after a few hellos, we said we would meet up this am.
Today we are going to orient ourselves in this city, with a walking tour and a side trip to a grocery store, where we will stock up on supplies for our tented camel trip in the desert.  I realized that this was a “code” to buy our own alcohol for the desert trip. Since Morocco is 99% Muslim, and non drinking.....the “supplies” will be ours for wine time in the Sahara. Sounds like a good idea to me.