TURN AROUND

We reach Kirkenes and did some exploring in this most Northern of towns. So close to the Russian Boarder, that we COULD actually step on Russian soil.

The ferry does a turn around and we head back on a southerly course to Bergen. We stop at many of the same ports on the return trip, but the times are different and we can get out and explore some that we missed. We are also through with the formal "Viking History" lectures and movies, and are starting the WWII phase of our experience.

A great and moving experience was walking to a bomb shelter cave made by the people of Kirkenes. A local man, who's parents had fled to the cave 100's of times durning the bombing raids by the Russians who were trying to rid the area of the Germans. It was creepy and inspiring to enter part of this dank dark cave that held hundreds of the towns people. The residents slept in their clothes because the raids would come at any time and sometimes 5-6 times in a 24 hr period. Our local guide had much passion in his delivery and made us feel how terrorized the local people became. The cave worked to save many many lives, but the devastation the Germans played, left the town a "scorched earth". Before the Germans fled, they  leveled the entire town by burning it down. The feelings still run long and deep in this town against the Nazis. There is nothing "old" left in Kirkenes, as it was rebuilt completely since the war, and is now inhabited by  a mixture of Russian and Norwegians.

WITCHES CHAIR

For about a 100 years....year 1600-1700......Norway burned "witches" at the stake or threw them into the bay with their hands and feet bound.(If they floated, they were guilty and left to drown...everyone floated)

We were in a far Northern town called Vardo, and there was a profound and moving monument to the 121 people who were burnt in that region. We set off on a hike across some fields and came upon a very moving monument of every person recorded whom was put to death for sorcery. A very long building on the shore of an inlet. There were small windows with a lightbulb hanging for each person killed. Also, their names and ages, and the crimes that they were accused. Somber. A few yards away was the "witches" chair......inside a large hut. The flame 🔥 never goes out. They were tied to a chair...ie...the witches chair on a bonfire pile, then lit on fire.   Very profound monument. The light of day was fading, and we walked in the strange Arctic twilight to a grave yard.  To think when someone was accused, they were probably also killed without proof or jury was creepy. Most, but not all, of the people burned were the indigenous people of Northern Norway, the Sami's, (called Laps in years past, and now considered a racist term). They held to their pagan beliefs that were threatening to the invading population who were jumping on board with a form of Christianity. 

As moving as it was, it was one of my favorite things we did....and to think they kept such complete records. I have a small booklet that describes each person's "crimes" and manner of and even descriptions of their death 💀. 

NORDKAPP

Nordkapp or Northcape in Finmark area of Northern Norway is the most Northwest point and North of the Arctic Circle. Our ferry docked in Kireness, then in Vardo. Some of us elected to board a bus and travel almost an hour more to the very most Northern spot. It was so foggy or cloudy as we climbed the windy road, I could believe the bus driver could see the road. As we approached the actual cape, we climbed above the clouds and there was a sunny, but cool day of exploring. 
Along the way we stopped at a small Sami village. Samis are the indigenous people of Northern Norway and speak their own language which is nothing at all like Norwegian. They are more like people of the  Arctic. They herd Reindeer and fish, but are slowly incorporating into the general population.

Once at the cape, we had plenty of places to walk and experience this barren and harsh landscape. Most people complain about the wind and fog, which rolls in, bit we hit a perfect day of no wind and cloud, which were beautiful.

LIFE IN NORWAY

Everyone thinks Norway is expensive. It is. Luxury items, especially. And cars. 100% mark up on the price. But, hey, guess what? Walking and biking is better for you and they make it easy to do anything physical. Bike lanes are wide and prevalent every where. Public transportation is free. Electric cars..25% of the cars and growing. Norweigians go outside.....whenever they can. It shows. They are fit, they are healthy, their air is clean. They eat a lot of fish and drink a lot of beer. If they do get sick,  medical care is paid for, along with free education, retirement is paid for, and that leaves them much of time for a good life. If one wants to smoke, drive, drink ......get ready to pay for it! The alcohol limit for DUI is .03, so about one drink. So they don't drink and drive or carry guns.  They wonder "outloud" why we have so many problems in the US.
So what did we do in this very safe country when we dock? We went to galleries, we went to museums, we went to stores, and we went to concerts at churches. Norwegians love to wave their flag, but it is never a political statement as in the US. It is truly a pride in a government that they have learned to trust and take care of their basic needs as humans. People always have shelter, food, and health.  It costs them about 29% of their income, and an add on tax of 25% for goods. They have decided to spend their money on infrastructure, safety, education, health, clean environment...for ALL. I think they have a good deal and they do seem to be a happy bunch of humans.

SHIPBOARD LIFE

On the days we don't have planned excursions, we have some lectures and see movies on The Viking era. If the ferry docks at a small town, we try to get off and stretch our legs. If it stays for a couple hours or more, we explore and go see the towns local flavor.

The "NordNorge" is a working ferry , along with 10 others that ply the Norwegian coast. The small costal town have no air strips, so the ferry system brings them mail, autos, food, all sort of goods. Sometimes we just watch them load and unload pallets at a short stop. People get on, and some get off, and some, like us, are on the ferry for the duration. We usually stop at the same towns going N as we do going S, but the times are different so, we may disembark  on one of the stops. All boats are active all the time, so when we pass a "sister steamer" it is announced and three long blasts of the horn are given. 

The rooms are comfy, but small. Our bed takes up the whole space with just a couple inches to squeeze around. We do have a shower tho and a flat screen TV. And coffee. I have heard some rooms don't have the extras. There are plenty of nice areas to sit in on board, and the decks are available for walking and viewing. No one has an outside dec and some, just a port hole.

There is a very nice bakery aboard and it also serves wine and beer. There is a nice roomy bar. I don't think there is an actual Dr. Because the other day a woman fell, and they asked if there was a Dr. onboard. So while this seems like a cruise ship in some outside ways, it is still a ferry boat, with modern conveniences  for paying passengers.

VIKING FEAST

After a great hike and a hot shower, we boarded a bus for an hour ride to a reconstructed Viking Hall, literally built over the ruins of an old Site. We were to have a traditional Viking Feast with some reenacting of Viking times.

We drank "mead" , which is basically a wine made with honey, water, and a few spices. After many "skols" , the 15% alcohol made us able to dance the traditional Viking dance....2 steps left, 1 step right. Repeat. Holding hands in a big circle.

Vikings ate meat! A lot of meat! Mostly lamb. The amount of meat placed on my plate could have fed a whole family. Along with carrots,turnips, cooked barley, and a barley bread...it was a very hearty meal. No dessert needed. They also ate fish, of course, but  lamb was their main food. Steve is not a lamb eater, so he barely touched his meat.

Also, no forks were invented yet, so a big spoon and a mean ol bone handled stabbing knife was provided. I finally gave up and did like most Vikings did....ate with my hands! Quite efficient. The actors/servers were dressed in authentic garb of the time and role played throughout, including a slave girl with lice in her hair!

HIKING IN BODO

Continuing our journey up the coast, we had an opportunity to spend a few hours ashore at Bodo (pronounced Buhda). There was a level 4 hike offered and Steve signed us up. I was a bit apprehensive, even tho I hike a bit back home. The leader, Bjorn, was young, fit, with looks of an athletic model. Ahhh well, about 15 people in the group, and away we go. Hiking trails in Norway are like everything else, well done. The country had hired Sherpas from Nepal to build big stone steps on the steepest parts. Said to cost a fortune, but Norway pays.

It was actually a level 2 hike for us, and we made it to the top easily. The guides served hot chocolate and coffee and candy bars at the top...we refueled and headed back down. The tough part for some was we had to keep a pretty brisk pace to make it back to the ferry sailing time...so they didn't want slow hikers or laggers. It was a perfect clear cool day and we could see islands all over. Norway has over 40,000 islands! Yes! When you are at a high point you can start to see how it lays out. Amazing geography.