LEAVING THE NORTH

"Better weight

  than wisdom

  a traveller cannot carry.

  The poor man's strength

   in a strange place, 

   worth more than wealth"

I decided to add a few of the  "sayings from the Vikings, which served as words of wisdom and, spiritual provisions on for the Vikings on their long journeys over the rough seas tomdiscouver new lands.  I bought a book and like these from the book of Havamal.

So today we packed up and took a small plane and a short flight back to Reykjavik, but we didn't stay long, as we went to explore the Southern coast for a few days.  The landscape changes so dramatically in Iceland, all because of volcanoes and there ever present activity.  We stopped at a huge lake in Pingvellir National Park and had a delicous lunch of fresh lake Char (trout).  We went to see the  Great Geyer which erupts about every 10 min.  Of course Steve had to stand as close as he could, and he got drenched.  It was pretty funny to see all these people running from a 90 foot spout of steaming water because they wanted to get a picture close up. My picture was better abd taken from a safe vantage point!

We also went on a beautiful short hike in the Icelandic woods.  We climbed around on some great stone outcroppings left by volcanic eruptions and a saw a serene pool of water with colorful reflections and many birds and ducks.

In the late afternoon we drove to our gorgeous hotel in Hella on the Ranga River.  We were greeted by the owner and host in this exquisite rustic lodge.  Then we headed straight to the bar for happy hour.  Any time you can get a glass of wine form less that 15 dollars is a big deal!

   

PUFFINS

We got up early and left for a small northern town called Husavik to  board an old wooden sailing boat and go out into the frigging cold North Atlanitc to see some Puffins.  A LOT of Puffins.  About 200,000 Puffins who roost on.....ta da.....Puffin Island.  Somehow I was thinking this was going to be a small pram in a small park inlet.  What was I thinking!!! We lined up for our survival suits.  I was last, and all the smalls were gone and I got an extra large humdinger of a survival suit, even bigger than Steve's! I couldn't even stand up without feeling like a bobble head doll.  Steve looked pretty dang good in his, and I was miserable.  The captain immediately announced the safety stuff and also added that there was no shame in chucking one's cookies because of rough seas in the NORTH ATLANTIC! I was worried, considering my propensity to do just what he said.  Luckily the trip out to the Island was only about 45 min so I survived. There were alot Puffins flying and floating and diving, but we just could not get close enough to this island with all the wave action.  The crew brought around hot chocolate and cinnamon roles, but I did not partake.  We learned much about Puffins and they are a special bird in these parts.  The population loves them, and even eats them.

The town of Husavik is a wonderful small harbor town that is so picturesque, but then everything in Iceland is picturesque!

AKUREYRI

I really love this town and we are here for 4 days.  Lots to see in surrounding area.  They call it the capital of the North and it is delightful in every way.  About 18,000 people with the main industry----fishing. People make a good living here and lead a good life with good health care, good schools, and an easy town to walk in.  Our hotel in right in the middle of town and we enjoying walking each evening and seeing the locals. It has the best skiing in winter and a pretty mild climate ( Icelandic wise), and now since there is daylight all the time, one can play golf at midnight or just go anywhere, and people do! There are good resturants, a nice park and cultural center and virtually no crime.  Here are a few pictures I took on a walk tonight...and I mean at 10:00 pm!

LAKE MYVATN AND THE NATURE BATH

We are hunkered down in the most wonderful town of Akureyri in the northern area of Iceland.  We had a long but fun day sightseeing and a few small hikes in a very bizarre landscape.  Everything a volcano can to to a landscape is here and it is hauntingly beautiful.  The snow covered volcanos, the huge waterfalls, the boiling sufuric mud pots, the strange lava contortions and the most wonderful natural spas are all here. There are Norse Sagas aplenty to go around and explain these natural wonders. We just walked and hiked and enjoyed it all.  

After visiting Lake Myvtan and expeiencing the massive flys that just pester the hell out of everyone, Chris and I bought fly nets to wear while walking.  They worked!

 A few of us ended up at Myvatn Nature Bath which was the highlight of the day for me. We brought out bathing suits and slipped into the most wonderful pools of geothermal water that comes from the fissures deep in the earth. The pools are huge, very warm,(and in some areas... too hot) and the water contains a unique blend of mineral, silicates, and micro-organisms that soothes the body.  We loved it, but finally after almost an hour, we had to get dressed and continue the trek in this area. I didn't get any pics of the pool.  I was so anxiuos to get in!  But, here's  a bugnet selfie!

SHEEP, SHARKS AND SNAEFELLNES PENINSULA

I keep forgetting to mention that we have been joined on our Icelandic adventure by Steve's sister, Chris and her husband Fred.  So there will be some stories about these two from Minnesota, I am sure!

And I know this is a boring subject, but just let me say Iceland has Sheep..a LOT of sheep.  They are everywhere, even in the middle of the road.  There are no preditors here,except the restaurants,  and lamb is on EVERY menu.  They aren't in herds, there are no fences and they are just all over the place...on the lava rocks,the fields,roads, hill and dale and enjoy a fairly peaceful,life until the fall round up, and then....well, you know...lamb chops!  The reason I even mentioned this is yesterday we were headed down a dirt road to see some site and this crazy sheep and her babies decided to run down the road in front of us...for about a mile! They would not scurry over to the side or the fields.  Sheep are dumb.

Then we visited a Shark Farmer.  Well, he really isn't a hunter, but he is a fishermen and a farmer on the Snaefellnes Peninsula.  We went there to taste rotting shark meat.  There is a huge lave bed that goes down to the sea and a big wooden shark on a pole letting the familiar know where to turn and drive thru more lava  until one comes to the "Shark Farmer". Hundreds of years ago,when things were really tough in Iceland...the people were tougher!  They caught and ate shark to supplement their meager diets.  Now, it is restricted to catch them, but these huge "Greenland sharks"  get caught in fishing nets by commercial fisherman, and the Shark Farmer buys them so their death doesn't go to waste.  This meat is actually poisen, but someone long found out if you just let it rot for a few months, it can be eaten and the oil is actuallu good for you. So after a tour and a short talk about all things "shark" we were invited to sample this.  Now days it is served at celebrations and to idiot tourists. The farmer explained that you spear a piece of shark and put it in a little jigger filled with a clear potent liquer called "black death".  You let this fermented shark meat soak for a few seconds then eat it, followed by gulping down the rest of the black death and then a piece of dark rye bread.  Quite ceremonial.  Guess who was standing in the front with a crap grin on her face? So I was given the honor of going first.  I could not let my fellow travel mates down, so I did it.  The outcome was: the shark wasn't all that bad, but the "black death" white lightening was horrid.  My call is that the liquer is to take one's mind off the putrid shark.  Thank god no one took a picture of me, but I got a few of Steve and Chris.

Well, the fellow informed us that he was very sorry they didn't actually sell the shark meat there but they did sell it at the airport in the "Made in Iceland" shop.  Yeah...right.

Snaefufellsnes Peninsula

I have only been in Iceland a couple days, and I already want to come back!  Stunningly beautiful at every turn, the country has already exceeded my expectations.  We started out in a pretty good drizzle and by lunch at a tiny fishing village, the mist had left us with  vast expanses of volcanic scenery and haunting vistas as far as the eye could see.  The bright green expanse was dotted every now and then with a lone farm , always painted with bright roofs and very small churches from long ago.  The country has become more secular in modern times, but these small churches have been kept up, mostly by the farmers. A few are still used, but most harken to days gone by when a farmer would charitably erect a small church for the people in his area, but also pocket some of the tithing as his part of his earnings.

We drove for hours with stops for lunch and a couple short hikes.  Always the scenery just blew me away with glaciers, volcanoes, lava fields, snow, ocean cliffs on a very narrow two lane road.  We were shoe-horned in to a cliff side resturant and served a wonderful hot "fisherman's stew" with fresh bread. It was a very long day, whoch really never ends here at this time of year.  After dinner and retire-ring to our room, I glanced out the window at the golf course attached to the hotel.  There was a quartet of people started a golf game in the sun.  It was 10:00 PM!

 

ICELAND COMMETH

"He who travels widely,
 needs his wits about him......
The stupid should stay home!"

 Getting ready for a new little jaunt, I read that fine line in The Words of the High One.  The dry aphorisms that can often stand alone in a body of great writing.  I sort of got into the Icelandic Poetry and  Sagas as I was preparing for our trip. Those tough old Vikings had a way with words that cut through all the flowery descriptions and just laid it out.. Old Icelandic poetry doesn't rhyme or fall into syllable counting meters. I may be sprinkling some more here and there as I describe this trip.

So off we go today on Icelandic Air straight thru to Reykjavik from SeaTac.  We land early in the am and grab our ride as we head North to Borgarnes, a small town on the shores of Borgarfjorour. The island nation was invaded by the Norwegian Vikings and the Celts and they found something to love in this hard scrabble land. I am looking forward to some spectacular scenery, coldish weather, beautiful people, "skyr", putrefied shark meat, singed sheep's head, sheep's blood pudding, and broiled puffin. (this was all in the "Exploring Iceland" brochure)  .

After scooting around the Northern and Southern reaches of this fine country, we will end our visit in Reykjavik for a few days.  There will be a couple of added attractions that may prove to be the frosting on the cake.  On a whim, and a "head's up" from an acquaintance with strong Iceland genes, I signed up to do:  The Midnight Run...at well, midnight.  It is a marathon through Reykjavik, but also includes a short course (5 K) for the less inspired.  It is supposed to be sunny all night and also, instead of a beer garden after the race, we get to soak in some hot springs.  The "other" attraction this gal is looking forward to is The ICELANDIC PHALLOLOGICAL MUSEUM.  Yes, a whole museum devoted to the penis of the various types of mammals.  This isn't a joke, and if you've been to Iceland, you have probably visited this museum, which says in it's blurb...has finally made it possible for individuals to undertake serious study in the field of Phallology in an organized SCIENTIFIC fashion. If you don't believe me...google it....but I'm going.