ROADS

Simply put, the roads in Uganda are bad.  There are not many. They are in difficult terrain and of course Uganda faces many challenges trying to fix anything.  I give so much credit to Steffi and George for getting us to our first destination, for while we were onserving and criticizing, and moaning, and complaining, and sighing...they were on high alert while driving through the most difficult conditions with humor and ease.  I was thanking them later that night for delivering us safely to our lodge, and they said, "oh that was an easy day, not much traffic.!  11 hrs for 200 miles!!! We did pass(and wait) for some road construction, so it seems things are slowly changing. A word about the Land Crusier: while the "work horse" of the bush and the kind of power one wants to get out of difficult situations...comfort isn't a high priority.  I was squished, bounced, and my palm blistered by hanging on the the grab bar most of the way.

George and Steffi....best drivers in Uganda!

OFF WE GO...

We knew today was going to be a long drive, and we learned  the first rule of Ugandan travel: Do not ask how far...ask how long it will take....then double that!  We were to drive from Entebbe to Murchinson Falls in the northern part of Uganda.  It took over 11 hours to go 200 miles.  We were excited to board our sturdy Land Cruisers, and get to the rural areas.  First we had to drive a ways thru Kampala because....well, because there is really only one road.  We decided to not tour this Capital city because of recent terrorist threats and the fact that we stuck out like a moving target. From the time we left Entebbe, for the next 3-4 hours before we stopped for a potty break, we drove by and through mass poverty, unbeleivable traffic conditions, dirt, dust, and that was just to get to Kampla  a few MILES away!

The main stay of the Ugandan traffic mover is a small cycle nick named the "boda-boda", because it was first used to move people from "boarder to boarder" during the conflicts in Rwanda, Congo, Sudan, and Uganda.  Now, it is simply the quickest way to get somewhere, or get something somewhere because we saw these small motorcycles carrying everything and everybody for hire.  2  bulky but hardy Land Cruisers were no match for the agile cycles and their fearless drivers.

On the way to Kampala.

ENTEBBE

We made it and we are tired. Met our three Ugandan guides who will be with us thru thick or thin for the whole trip.  Ham is the name of our main guy, and it was it 42 nd birthday today.  He has a very soft voice and a strong accent, but big smile, and I am enjoying getting to know him.  We unloaded and rested by the pool in our hotel.  Weather is grand, actually...but there are alot of "developing county problems" that I am trying to look  at with huomor.  Like right befor dinner I heard a faint knock on our flimsy door, and upon opening was greeted by a young man with a couple BIG cans of bug spray asking if wanted our room and belongings sprayed. Well, hell yes!  Then I locked our passports and $$ in the room safe, but could not get it to open.  Imagine my disdain when I asked for help and another man came in and just pressed a "hidden" button...and open easy!  I do have internet, but it is convoluted and slow.  So far, we have no hot water...you know, just little things.!!!  Wine comes in the basic two flavors, and the food is surprisingly good. steve tempted fate today and ordered a huge  salad.  I had Tilapia caught, not farmed. We had a couple briefings, and yes, while Uganda is definetly third world and has over 35 million people in a country a tad bigger than Washington State...we were assured it was safe to walk around.  

We hit the road tomorrow for a long drive to Murchisson Falls.  The roads can be muddy, if it rains, and cause delays.....but  I am ready.  So tired.  Will try and up load a few pictures.

                            

UGANDA TREKKING ADVENTURE

I wasn't going to actually "start" the blog until we landed on African soil.....but since it is 4:00 AM here in Dubai, and I can't sleep...I guess I will post a few words.  We had an uneventful 14.5 hour flight from SeaTac, non stop,to Dubai,UE we will leave our hotel,Le Meridian, and catch the next flight which will land us in Entebbe early afternoon.

Why Africa, again?  So many reasons, and some are kind of odd.  Steve and I loved our Wildlife Safari adventure last year, and wanted more...but different.  This time we are headed to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in NW Uganda to trek throughthis misty rainforest and try to see and observe the Mountain Gorilla.  The Bwindi area hold half (about 340) of the world's endangered Mountian Gorillas. They are only accessable on foot and we wil be accompanied by experienced trackers and "protectors" of the primates......and us!  If we are able to find them, we will only be allowed 1 hr or less to observe, and there are all kinds of rules to abide by.  I will be able to describe this part more as we get closer to that day.  The park is strict and only allows 24 people a day to trek.  And then, we must be broken into small groups..

Along the way we will be staying in different places including 3 solar powered "eco lodges" , and I am not sure about power, let alone wifi!  Haha

Tonight we are schedualed to be at LAICO Lake Victoria Hotel touted as a "classic colonial" style hotel overlooking the panorama of Lake Victoria.

In Uganda, it is still rainy season, and they are squarely on the equator...so I KNOW the humidity is going to be killer. I hope I am not sending complaint posts all the time abput the wet and heat...be forwarned.  We brought lots of rain gear, water prood boots, and gloves, and are ready!

THE END

Spent all day touring Valparaiosa on the coast. It is a great OLD coastal town, with beautiful rocky beaches and great seafood empanadas. Our flt leaves late tonight, so we had all day to explore before heading to the airport. We loved both Chile and Argentina, and they are very different from one another. Patagonia is a place of it's own, but each country claims part of it, but it really seems like a separate country. Kind of wild and wooly and still untamed. Argentina is busy and messy, and fun and exciting, the wild child of the two countries. They are still struggling with their government and social policies and inflation and unemployment. Chile on the other hand, seems to have found a stride that works for them, after the terrible years of Pinochet. They are proud of what they have accomplished in the years since the dictatorship. They have low unemployment, a strong military, good police, a strong currency, clean and orderly cities with great traffic flow, and beautiful uncrowded freeways and roads. They are working hard at eliminating poverty and moving the homeless into better housing. The country is an easy place in which to travel.
We have had such an interesting and varied few weeks. I just throw some random pictures out of this and that. I cannot say "adios" to South America, because our guide says that is used for a final goodby, when you do not plan to c e back or see the person again...and I definitely want to come back and explore more...so....hasta la vista.

DIFUNTA CORREA AND GAUCHITO GIL

On the long ride we were on to Torres, we traveled a rural road that I have dubbed the "the Saints Rd". There were quite a few places where local legend had caught fire with the people of Patagonia, and the sacrificed people of this area had become saints. The Catholic church has ignored this, because of course, they need to be in charge of who or whom is a recognized saint. While Difunta Correa is not officially recognized, literally thousands of people pay homage to this woman who sacrificed her life for her child. During a Chilean conflict, she was looking for her husband and and got lost. She died of dehydration, but when searchers found her, her baby was still alive, nursing at her breast. She became a hero and then a "saint" to everyone in Chile. People come from all over to pray for miracles and also bring bottles of water as an offering. It is a strange sight to travel along the road and see a huge area of plastic water bottles....."caps off, so she can drink the water". It looks gross, but it is so real many people of this area. We stopped and 2 of our group were chosen to bring bottles to the offering.
Gauachito was a different story. He was hung by the opposing military for doing something he did not do. Before he died, he told the officer who captured him, that the officer 's son would become very sick, but if the officer prayed to El Gauachito for forgiveness and help, the son would recover. Instead of water, patrons offer beer, whiskey, cigarettes, girly magazines......I was handed a can of beer, unopened, and asked to make 2 specific wishes, and then open the can of beer and offer it to Gauachito. One wish had to be for the group, and one wish had to be personal. So far, neither has materialized, but the trip is not quite over. I may have jinxed it by trying to take a sip from the can(well, it was a hot day!), but our guide screamed for me to stop...and please respect the saint "Gauachito Gil". Gauchito has a huge following and growing each year for people wanting miracles and afraid of jinxes.

HARAS DE PIRQUE

OK...what does one do if money is no object, and they LOVE and have a passion for WINE and HORSES!
They,the Matte family of Chile, bought 1500 acres on the slopes of the Andes and raise thoroughbreds and grapes and both are doing extremely well. This morning we ventured to this vineyard for a private tour and tasting. As we drove along grassy fields of beautiful horses, which then turned into acres of grape laden vines, I thought......omg! wow! And all those overused phrases!
So then we do the obligatory tour, which was quite interesting, since this endeavor was only established in 1991, and now one of Italy's renowned vintner has become a 50% owner. After the tour we were led into the tasting room which was "under" the waterfall, and the sun was shining through the water and lighting the room. There was a thick glass inverted ceiling that the waterfall cascaded on. No standing at the wine bar here. Noooooo...we had seats with our glasses in front, and an array of palate cleansing munchies. It was only 10 AM! But..ok. We were giving small booklets and little goodies as we left. It was so fun. The sommelier told me that, yes....their wines were available in the states and their only distributor was St Michele of Washington State. So anyone is remotely interested the wine is distributed under the labels of: "Equus" , "Haras", and "Albis" (this one made with both winemakers...Chilean and Italian).
I thought it was an excellent way to spend a Monday morning! Salut!