Southern Cross....Crosby, Stills, and Nash.....a great song! First time I heard it in the 80's......" off then wind on this heading lies the Marquesas"....got me. Marquesas. What? Where? I really didn't know. Then we heard of the Aranui trip to the Marquesas...we got hooked on the adventure and that song kept playing reruns in my head.
The Marquesas are remote, and really one of the last places on this busy earth where one can find tranquility, a "simple" life, and few, if any tourists. There are over 15 islands in the Marquesa archipelago, but only 6 are inhabited. The people who live here speak a different local dialect than Tahitians, and in fact each island had a different accent and some different words for common objects. Once there were over 70,000 inhabitants, but after the Catholic missionaries invaded and brought disease, rules, and regiment...the numbers dropped to 2,000. In fact, they were almost wiped out by cholera and small pox...and alcohol problems, because they had never used anything like it until the invaders showed them how to make alcohol out of pretty much anything that grows there. Their dances, tattoos, and language were deemed barbaric and the church outlawed anything they deemed offensive to god. The French government who had claimed the archipelagos as a "prestige" move.....literally did nothing to support them during this time. Finally, a brave priest stood up and said enough! It was he and the elders who were left to slowly start bringing the old ways back. The Marquesans are proud, and should be. They have reclaimed their languages, dances ( although now the dancing reflects Modern Maori culture, whom they admire). They sing the old songs and tattoos have become very important and we actually had 2 lectures on the reasons and style of tattoo.
Everywhere we went, people were happy to greet us. Although the French government now supports the Marquesas, the people prefer to live off the land, with most men fishermen, carvers, or working as drivers and local crew when the Aranui docks once every 2 weeks. The children go to Primary school on each island, then secondary school on the 2 largest islands. School ends at 16 and while they are welcome to come to France for more education, and college, most parents discourage it. That seems shame to Western thought, but as we learned....they really have everything they need to live happily.....health care is free, climate is temperate, the eat local food from land and sea and it is plentiful. The internet has recently changed somethings, but not as much as the rest of the world. They are not rich by our standards but feel rich as they can easily afford to buy a truck(very few cars on then islands) and live a fulfilling life so far way from the rest of civilization. I tried a few times to engage some into a political discussion, but it really isn't a very interesting subject for them. 👏👏👏👏.
So, for 2 weeks we were learning, experiencing, and enjoying something so different than our lives. No wonder Gauguin fell in love with the Marquesas...and lived out his life there. Not much has changed.....and if they are happy with that, that is a good thing in this fast paced world.
BORA BORA
Our last day on the Aranui and we sailed into the beautiful atoll of Bora Bora. I was so afraid it would be overrun by tourists, after the tranquil and non tourist Marquesasa. There were a couple big cruise ships anchored.......but Bora Bora is a large place and the Aranui had a surprise for us......our own island to have a fabulous bar-b-que lunch and enjoy the whole day doing what we wanted. Before we went to the small island, Steve and I took a motorized canoe trip around the whole lagoon. We stopped at a coral reef and jumped into the crystal clear water to snorkel. Wow! So many fish and coral specimens to see! Back on the canoe we traveled a bit further and saw hotel and hotel bungalows that hung over the water. Then....big thrill we stopped at an area known to be frequented by black tipped sharks and big rays. Steve was the first one into the water to see and swim with this marine life. It was so much fun to actually swim with the big ones in the clear water....a highlight for sure.
Next we traveled to the private island, where the lunch crew had really outdone themselves..bar-b- qued ribs, chicken, pork, fish and sausages and many salads. After lunch, Steve decided to swim around the island. The beach was super shallow, somin some places, he could just stand and walk. Still, there were lots of fish.
Our last evening was fairly anticlimactic as we shared a nice dinner with New Zealand and Canadian friends we had met. It was routine...UNTIL the kitchen crew came out after the meal, in their black chef's gear...and broke into a big long HAKA, which could put the All Blacks to shame! It was exciting, loud and powerful...and all in our dining room. And me without my camera. So sad. The diners were erupting in clapping and shouting and as we all got into it! Big time! What ending.
RANGIROA
After leaving the wonderful serene Marquesas, we traveled towards a big Atoll called Rangiroa. It is the 2nd largest atoll in the world, behind one in the Marshall Islands arrived in the am about breakfast time. After we anchored, some people went to a Pearl farm, some went scuba diving, and some went to a glass bottom boat tour. Since I am pretty sick of being tossed on the waves, I just wanted to get off the Aranui and go to the beach. Steve and I decided to go snorkeling.
When we leave the ship, we do so in large open barges. Today the seas were choppy with swells and it makes disembarking and returning kind of exciting. Three beefy Polynesians are at the ready and grab us and for me, lift me off the gangplank and deposit me inside the high sided barge. Once a person is on, it is a fun spectacle to see the fear on others, and the wobbles when they try and right themselves.
Once at the beach, we hit the water and putzed around looking for fish for awhile. The water was cooler than the Marquesas and also had some chop....... Tomorrow, we should be at Bora Bora and hopefully it will be better.
Right now, we are in some powerful swells and this freighter is rocking pretty steep. Our ice bucket just went flying across the room and I had to shove stuff in drawers and bring in all the shoes and clothes we left drying on the deck. The swimming pool is draining itself with every slosh.
This is going to be a loooooooooog night.
After having the ocean and islands to ourselves for 2 weeks.... we saw our first signs of tourism...a big ol cruise ship anchored by the Atoll. Even tho we are tourists, we dont want to see other tourists! Ha! Go figure
AT SEA
We are leaving the archipelago of the Marquesas and crossing the sea to the Society Islands, of which Bora Bora and Tahiti belong. It is over 600 miles, so are a sea for almost 2 days. When we traveled to the Marquesas, this stretch was rough and I was sea sick....but this return is calm and I am enjoying it much more. So I thought about Aranui. It is a Chinese built freighter which takes passengers. It is owned by a Chinese family, but there are no Chinese on board. The crew are mostly Polynesians, and mainly from the Marquesas, and a few from Tahitian islands. We have guest lecturers at on board also.
Late in the afternoon, we always have a briefing. They give you a cheat sheet with the times and activities offered the coming day. Most of the activities are included, but a few, like deep sea fishing and scuba diving require an extra fee.
We have a happy hour every day, where they make exotic drinks or wine for 5.00$ a glass and it is always French wine. People sot around on various decks and just gaze out at the vast Pacific. Dinner and lunch are almost always "served". But no one has assigned seats, so one just picks a spot to sit. 2 kinds of wine are always served with lunch and dinner...which is alwaysnthe same format...small app (or small salad) main entree..mostly fish with a starch, followed by a small portion of dessert. There is no coffee in the cabins, but always coffee and tea and offered in the lounges all day.
The cabins are nice. Ours has a large deck with 2 chairs and a table. We have a nice king size bed and more cupboard space than we can fill. The head is also large with a big shower and shelves for our stuff. Everything is very comfortable and easy access. There is a small gym, and small pool, and 3 bars on the 9 decks. There is a ships store with many nice clothes and sundries. Internet is a chore. Satellite and it is expensive and mbs are quickly used. This is probably my number one complaint . We do have a large flat screen with CNN on it, and the rest is French. It is a not a ship with parties and nightclubs and gambling. It is a freighter first...with paying customers. The crew entertains us with music when they have time off....it is my favorite part....and watching the freight unload and load.
The passengers are nice, but only a small percentage speak English....most people on these trips have done a bit of traveling...so they are interesting.
Tomorrow we anchor in the Tahitian Islands, and we just picked up some fins for a beach trip. Most of the people want to go to a "pearl farm"...... but we are going snorkeling. My hair looks like an aborigine.....but that's another story! Thank god for my NIKE hat! 
NUKA HIVA/UA POA REDO
Today we returned to 2 of our previous island stops to load freight and fresh fruits for our voyage back. It is always so interesting to see the small families line up in their trucks and load their supplies. We are also the mail to some of the smaller island who have to Airport. But in today's world..the internet has been a blessing to the remoteness. One of the ship's guides said 95% of island kids have a FB account! But what we see are kids without alot of helicopter parents...playing and having fun. As soon as the Aranui begins to moor, the Capt blows a big horn and the kids just descend on the dock and wait for the lines to be tied. Then they are allowed to play on those lines , swimming and jumping. For hours while we are in port. This would NEVER EVER happen in America because of probably liabilities.... but here is a different world. The older kids keep an eye on the younger ones. The families are large, and the kids are basically turned loose. Of course they are little fishes in the water.... we even saw kids as young as 3 in the deep water. There was a big sting ray feeding on small fish right next to where we tied up, and while it was interesting to watch......the kids knew to stay back and didnt enter the water until it was gone.
Steve and I signed up for an outrigger canoe lesson in the bay. It wasn't too hard and a fun thing to do. Then, we swam in the 84 degree water temp. Tough duty!
After another "French style" dinner, we moseyed into one of the ships bars, where "some" of the crew where playing their guitars, ukes and the Marquesan uke, which has a distinct sound. This has got to be one of my favorite things: servers, cabin cleaners, engine room, deck hands, dining room hostess, guides, officers....anyone who can play and instrument and has an hour of free time, just jams! And oh what a sound! Even the ships Dr. who was learning to play a uke......is there sometimes. Music knows no bounds!
FATU HIVA HIKE
So, the big day came for the big hike that all the guides had been talking about. We both decided to do it even tho we didn't bring hiking boots or gear. I wore beach water shoes (with socks) and Steve wore tennies. The first part was the steepest, and it never let up for 5 miles. The rule was anytime during the first 20 min. If you felt you made a mistake, you could turn around or wait for a truck which was bringing water and a Dr. It sounded so serious. But we were hiking from one part of the island, up over the top and arriving at another town, where the Aranui would be waiting About 33 people signed the "waiver", which said we were aware of the sporty and adventurous nature of the hike........and off we went, with water bottles filled and determination.
Yes, it was steep, but the main problem was heat. A great stroke of luck happened as it clouded over and a nice breeze blew on us almost all the way up! Steve was 5th to the top...even tho they warned us over and over this was NOT a competition. I just kept a real steady pace, only stopping to drink water. At the top was a lunch wagon! Fresh baguettes with various fillings, fresh ice cold mango juice, fruit....sweet banana cake and hot coffee. The French really love their comfort!
Then Steve and I walked down and the views on the down side were spectacular. It was even steeper in some places going down, and we hit pavement now and then, but it was a knee banger for sure and we even walked backwards part way, which was awkward, but kept the knees out of pain.
We are glad we did it and were thankful it wasn't blazing hot. It was over a 3000 ft gain. Everyone who started, made it, and no one turned back, although some were an hour or more behind us.
On our last night of the sail we found out that last year one hiker died of a heart attack on the hike...thus the waiver.
HIVA OA II
Another hike this am. Actually it was a warm up/test hike for the people who have signed up for the biggie on Fatu Hiva the next day. This island of Hiva Oa is where Paul Gauguin and Jaques Breil both ended up living out heir lives. Its a beautiful serene space with some steep hills. We elected to climb the road to the old cemetery where Gauguin is buried in a simple grave. It was about 5 miles total, but a Aussie lady and I decided to also "walk" back to the ship later so we did about 8 miles. It was steep going up and very humid. But had I no trouble, and reached the cemetery first, before the masses that took the bus.
After we walked back into town we went to an artesian shop and also the Gauguin museum which, was small and had no original art....what was the point? I backed out and continued walking towards the ship. There was a lot of unloading going on and we had to dodge fork lifts, boom cranes, trucks, loaders and assorted families picking up their goods. Even mail! Nothing like this would ever happen in the us with all it's L&I rules, bit here, things are a bit looser and they expect people to stay alert and work it out. Steve didnt want to go at all, and he just stayed on board all day, reading and "relaxing" .
Oh...the internet... a pain in the patootie. We have to use satellite connection out in the ocean, and it is slow...and expensive. About 50$ for 3000 mb, which goes fast if you upload pictures...and I do. I have already burned thru 2 packages! I really like to stay in touch socially, and read the US news...but it costs dearly. Some people have just forgone internet for the whole trip. Sometimes there is a cafe in a small town and they charge 5.00$ to connect, but it is always so slow and more frustrating that just not being on.
For me, it is a hard balance to ignore the internet for 2 weeks!
HIVA OA
We finally reached land and I was pretty happy about that. So at 7:30 AM we hit the ground running and barged into Hiva Oa. A l of the most sacred spots in the Marquesas. We weren't allowed to even walk on the rocks surrounding the Tikis, because it was the sacrificial spot in ancient times. Marquesean people practice Catholicism since the missionaries came, but they still hold on to the old ways of Mana and other rituals. After hearing a lecture and getting bit by mosquitos...we went back to the dock where the fun was...unloading some of our cargo and loading their stuff on board. It was fun to watch these big strong Marquesean men huck up bags of copra and fill the containers. Our freighter has over 100 containers , including refrigerated units, and barrels of diesel, lumber, mail, and appliances. This is really the only way the residents of these isolated islands can get anything.
VAITAHU BAY
We barged back to a lunch of roast chicken and vegetables as our ship sailed to the smallest INHABITED island of the six populated ones, TAHUATA...and the village of Vaitahu. There we went to the artist fair where the specialties are carved bones. Steve bought a humpback whale necklace for himself. We wandered around the very small town and finally caught a barge back to the ship....and then jumped in the swimming pool to cool off.
At dinner tonight, we lucked out and got to sit with English speakers! Yea! Seems funny to say, but over half the people on board are French...and since we have don't speak French...it gets tedious trying to small talk when we sit with them. I am sure they feel the same.
DAY AT SEA
So, we haven't seen land since yesterday at lunch. I could never be a sailor..... The Pacific is so big and my mind conjures up so many "lost at sea" survival movies..plus I have a small bout of sea sickness from the rollers. Hopefully, when we make land tomorrow about 9, my stomach will have calmed down. I've missed a few fun activities, but also rallied to attend a great lecture on the history of the Marquesas. Tomorrow we land at Hiva Ou and Tahuata. We only moor where we can unload freight and reload stuff from the small islands...mainly coconuts and their by products, and I will see what else.
This ship is only a couple years old and really nice inside. We have a big bath, (for a ship) and free laundry service! We just got our clean clothes back. We have a sitting area with a couch and coffee table and 2 chairs...and a refrigerator! And a nice deck with outdoor furniture. Sometimes I forget we are on a freighter, until I go on deck and see all the containers and other things. Wifi is by satellite, and expensive, but I can write emails and download mine and read them later. The food is mostly French cuisine accompanied by French wines that are selected to go with the meals.....portions are not huge, like Americans like....but probably just right, as I am always full! There are only 13 Americans, so we aren't hearing much English spoken, and I always have my ears out for an English speaker, since I only know a few words in French.
Tomorrow will be a busy day, as we are off the boat and seeing sights and start learning about the Marquesas Islands and their rich history.
FAKARAVA
We still are not at the Marquesas, but we stopped off on a bigger island called Fakarava to unload supplies and pick up palm fronds. We were there all morning, so Steve and I took the "barge" into shore and set out to find a good snorkel spot. There is only one road, and walking along it, one can just jump into the beautiful clear turquoise water, wherever. We found a good spot and enjoyed a nice morning swim. Then we decided to walk more and we ended up at a pearl farm, where I watched a local extract black pearls from oysters. Steve went to snorkel again and ran into 3 nurse sharks...harmless, but fun to paddle around with. Then we stopped and a beach cafe and I had a cafe au latte, and thought how lucky we are!
Walking back, school was out, and all these little kids biked by us waving and screeching and having fun. It was such an idyllic morning, I hated to go back, but nice to have a shower and clean up before lunch. The rest of the day has been "at sea" and a little bit rocking and rolling. I can't wait to get to the actual Marquesas and hope the islands will be calmer water.
Tomorrow is laundry day, and the ship actually washes, drys , irons and folds our clothes for FREE. We will have 3 free laundry days....and they gave us a cute net bag. But, alas...they don't do undies or socks......such a tough life...
After another lunch with great wine...we are having a happy hour this afternoon and meeting the Capitan of the Aranui.
